NORMANDY
NORMANDY
Normandy is the northwest region of France, hugging the coast of the English Channel. It’s a region full of historic and cultural significance from the Vikings to WWII.
But for us art lovers, Normandy is synonymous with the Impressionists. The coast city of Le Havre is where Monet grew up & painted ‘Impression, Sunrise’ which gave the Impressionist movement its name. He later settled in another town in Normandy, Giverny, where his infamous home and Japanese garden can still be visited.
Other artists such as Pissarro, Renoir, Degas, Boudin, Sisley, and Eva Gonzalès all created works inspired by the region. To visit Normandy is to step into a life-sized Impressionist painting.
Most destinations in Normandy are only a few hours from Paris, making them the perfect day trip or weekend away from the city. There are also ferry options directly from the UK to Normandy that make the journey even easier!
*Please note that I am only recommending places I have actually been, and would go again. New places and recommendations will be added as I see more of the region!
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Rouen
Getting There:
From Paris Saint Lazare it takes 1.5 hrs by train to get to Rouen. Depending on when you book & when you travel, tickets can be as low as 10 EUR but are typically ~25 EUR. I always book through Trainline, but of course you could also book directly through the SNCF site.
If you are 26 or under you can book a ticket for 50% off (just have ID ready in case they verify on the train).
Once you arrive, Rouen is quite walkable but there are also public transport options. On Saturdays public transport in Rouen is free, but you still need to have a ‘free’ ticket validated. Download the Astuce app or get them at the metro stations/on-board buses.
Art to See:
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen (Museum of Fine Art Rouen)
Often considered the most comprehensive collection of French art outside of Paris, this museum houses masterpieces from across centuries. The building is gorgeous as well, and they often host interesting temporary exhibitions.
When I went to see their exhibition Whistler: The Butterfly Effect I was blown away by all the interactive elements included in their exhibition!
The best part? The permanent collection is free to visit (& no pre-booking required)! As with most French museums, admission to the temporary exhibition is also free on the first Sunday of the month.
Centre d’Art Contemporain Hangar 107
A repurposed airplane hangar along the banks of the Seine that now houses temporary contemporary art exhibitions. Check out their Instagram page to see what exhibition they currently have on view.
Stunning space with gorgeous views over the city. I recommend pairing a visit to this gallery with a coffee on the terrace of Restaurant Cocorico to enjoy the views.
Tip: Save yourself some steps and take the Calypso river shuttle back across the Seine to the centre of Rouen. It is free on the weekends & holidays if you have a travel card (or ticket on the app), otherwise it is 1.80 EUR for the short journey across the Seine. Note that tickets can’t be booked on board, so I recommend you get tickets through the Astuce App.
Sites to See:
The astronomical clock from the 14th century is a marvel, both mechanically and aesthetically. A must-see landmark while in Rouen.
This cathedral was painted over 30 times by Monet as he depicted the building from various lighting conditions. The architecture is worth admiring from the outside, and inside you can also enter an immersive art installation— Luminiscence. Most evenings the space is transformed with light projections and live music, making it a truly immersive experience.
Dispatchwork (Lego Installation)
German artist Jan Vormann has repaired buildings and filled holes in broken walls across the globe. In 2020 he filled the holes left by WWII air raids that devastated Rouen. The bright, plastic colours seem out of place against the historic architecture, perhaps shining a brighter light on the destruction left behind.
My Fav Spot for a Drink:
Game bar/sports pub with riverside seating and retro decor. They also have a cool option where you can pour your own pints & pay by the exact amount you pour. It works out to be a bit cheaper than buying a pint from the bar, and it’s a really fun experience. Combine a stop here with a sunset stroll along the Seine. There’s a beautiful and lively pedestrian path just outside the bar where you can people (and boat) watch.
Where to Stay:
Personally, I think the best way to experience Rouen is by staying in one of their famous ‘half-timbered’ buildings. You’ll see this style of architecture across the city centre (there’s about 2,000 of them left, despite the destruction of WWII), which is characterised by exposed wooden beams & vibrant coloured facades. Some of them date back to the 1400s, so staying within really feels like you are stepping back in history.
We stayed at this Airbnb, the loft apartment of a half-timbered building in the city centre. I would highly recommend, but be prepared for narrow, steep staircases and no AC! To me, this added to the experience.
Content:
Looking for more inspiration? Here’s some content I’ve shared in Rouen.
Spend the day with me in Rouen (filled with art)
Giverny
Getting There:
From Paris Saint Lazare it takes 45 minutes by train to get to Vernon-Giverny station. Depends on when you book & when you travel, but tickets are usually about 10 EUR. I always book through Trainline, but of course you could also book directly through the SNCF site. Be sure to check if you qualify for discounts.
Personally, I think Giverny is the perfect day trip from Paris or other nearby cities. We stopped for the day on our way from Rouen to Paris as it was the perfect half-way point between the two cities. Hotels and Airbnbs are quite expensive in Giverny as there is not a huge supply, and one day should be more than enough time to see everything you want.
Vernon-Giverny is the closest station, but it is 1 hour walk, 20 minute bus ride, or 20 minute cycle to the heart of Giverny. If the weather is good, I highly recommend renting a bike for the day and cycling over to Giverny. It’s a stunning, idyllic ride (almost entirely on cycle/pedestrian paths) and this way you’re not spending your time waiting for buses. There’s tons of bike parking near Monet’s House & Garden.
The bike rentals are just opposite the Vernon station as you exit, and bikes cost about 10 EUR for the day and come with locks for you to use. We were also able to leave our bags at the bike rental shop for the day, which let us explore Giverny with much more freedom!
What to Do:
Let’s be honest, this is the real reason you came to Giverny. Claude Monet’s iconic home and garden draw thousands of visitors and offer incredible insight into the life of the Impressionist painter. Some tips for visiting:
Note the opening times. The gardens are not open all year, typically open April 1 - November 1, but review their site before planning a visit.
Be ready for the crowds. Giverny seems like an idyllic paradise, but Monet’s garden can become insanely packed in spring and summer with other art-loving tourists. My advice is to embrace the busyness and don’t be in a rush to see it all.
Book your ticket ahead! The website says that you can buy tickets onsite, but the queue for tickets on the day was crazy long. Save yourself the hassle and book ahead online.
I’d recommend going early in the morning to avoid crowds.
Musée des Impressionnismes Giverny (Museum of Impressionism)
This museum is across the street from Monet’s House and Garden and is also open seasonly. They only have temporary exhibitions, so be sure to check their website to see what is on display, and to make sure the museum will be open.
It’s a really beautiful museum space with their own garden and restaurant attached, making it the perfect place to spend an afternoon.
Restaurants and cafes are quite limited in Giverny. But La Capucine is located right next to the two art sites listed above, and their outdoor seating is a beautiful spot to recharge. There were even some chickens wondering around the grounds!
This is more of a bonus stop if you’re looking for something else to do in Giverny, and would be a good place to stop for a photo on your bike ride back into Vernon. The Old Mill of Vernon is located on the ruins of an old bridge dating back to the 12th century. It also features the half-timbered architecture that is famous in Normandy.
Content
Looking for more inspiration? Here’s some content I’ve shared from Giverny.
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