NORMANDY
NORMANDY
Normandy is the northwest region of France, hugging the coast of the English Channel. It’s a region full of historic and cultural significance from the Vikings to WWII.
But for us art lovers, Normandy is synonymous with the Impressionists. The coast city of Le Havre is where Monet grew up & painted ‘Impression, Sunrise’ which gave the Impressionist movement its name. He later settled in another town in Normandy, Giverny, where his infamous home and Japanese garden can still be visited.
Other artists such as Pissarro, Renoir, Degas, Boudin, Sisley, and Eva Gonzalès all created works inspired by the region. To visit Normandy is to step into a life-sized Impressionist painting.
Most destinations in Normandy are only a few hours from Paris, making them the perfect day trip or weekend away from the city. There are also ferry options directly from the UK to Normandy that make the journey even easier!
*Please note that I am only recommending places I have actually been, and would go again. New places and recommendations will be added as I see more of the region!
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Rouen
Getting There:
From Paris Saint Lazare it takes 1.5 hrs by train to get to Rouen. Depending on when you book & when you travel, tickets can be as low as 10 EUR but are typically ~25 EUR. I always book through Trainline, but of course you could also book directly through the SNCF site.
If you are 26 or under you can book a ticket for 50% off (just have ID ready in case they verify on the train).
Once you arrive, Rouen is quite walkable but there are also public transport options. On Saturdays public transport in Rouen is free, but you still need to have a ‘free’ ticket validated. Download the Astuce app or get them at the metro stations/on-board buses.
Art to See:
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen (Museum of Fine Art Rouen)
Often considered the most comprehensive collection of French art outside of Paris, this museum houses masterpieces from across centuries. The building is gorgeous as well, and they often host interesting temporary exhibitions.
When I went to see their exhibition Whistler: The Butterfly Effect I was blown away by all the interactive elements included in their exhibition!
The best part? The permanent collection is free to visit (& no pre-booking required)! As with most French museums, admission to the temporary exhibition is also free on the first Sunday of the month.
Centre d’Art Contemporain Hangar 107
A repurposed airplane hangar along the banks of the Seine that now houses temporary contemporary art exhibitions. Check out their Instagram page to see what exhibition they currently have on view.
Stunning space with gorgeous views over the city. I recommend pairing a visit to this gallery with a coffee on the terrace of Restaurant Cocorico to enjoy the views.
Tip: Save yourself some steps and take the Calypso river shuttle back across the Seine to the centre of Rouen. It is free on the weekends & holidays if you have a travel card (or ticket on the app), otherwise it is 1.80 EUR for the short journey across the Seine. Note that tickets can’t be booked on board, so I recommend you get tickets through the Astuce App.
Sites to See:
The astronomical clock from the 14th century is a marvel, both mechanically and aesthetically. A must-see landmark while in Rouen.
This cathedral was painted over 30 times by Monet as he depicted the building from various lighting conditions. The architecture is worth admiring from the outside, and inside you can also enter an immersive art installation— Luminiscence. Most evenings the space is transformed with light projections and live music, making it a truly immersive experience.
Dispatchwork (Lego Installation)
German artist Jan Vormann has repaired buildings and filled holes in broken walls across the globe. In 2020 he filled the holes left by WWII air raids that devastated Rouen. The bright, plastic colours seem out of place against the historic architecture, perhaps shining a brighter light on the destruction left behind.
My Fav Spot for a Drink:
Game bar/sports pub with riverside seating and retro decor. They also have a cool option where you can pour your own pints & pay by the exact amount you pour. It works out to be a bit cheaper than buying a pint from the bar, and it’s a really fun experience. Combine a stop here with a sunset stroll along the Seine. There’s a beautiful and lively pedestrian path just outside the bar where you can people (and boat) watch.
Where to Stay:
Personally, I think the best way to experience Rouen is by staying in one of their famous ‘half-timbered’ buildings. You’ll see this style of architecture across the city centre (there’s about 2,000 of them left, despite the destruction of WWII), which is characterised by exposed wooden beams & vibrant coloured facades. Some of them date back to the 1400s, so staying within really feels like you are stepping back in history.
We stayed at this Airbnb, the loft apartment of a half-timbered building in the city centre. I would highly recommend, but be prepared for narrow, steep staircases and no AC! To me, this added to the experience.
Content:
Looking for more inspiration? Here’s some content I’ve shared in Rouen.
Spend the day with me in Rouen (filled with art)
Giverny
Getting There:
From Paris Saint Lazare it takes 45 minutes by train to get to Vernon-Giverny station. Depends on when you book & when you travel, but tickets are usually about 10 EUR. I always book through Trainline, but of course you could also book directly through the SNCF site. Be sure to check if you qualify for discounts.
Personally, I think Giverny is the perfect day trip from Paris or other nearby cities. We stopped for the day on our way from Rouen to Paris as it was the perfect half-way point between the two cities. Hotels and Airbnbs are quite expensive in Giverny as there is not a huge supply, and one day should be more than enough time to see everything you want.
Vernon-Giverny is the closest station, but it is 1 hour walk, 20 minute bus ride, or 20 minute cycle to the heart of Giverny. If the weather is good, I highly recommend renting a bike for the day and cycling over to Giverny. It’s a stunning, idyllic ride (almost entirely on cycle/pedestrian paths) and this way you’re not spending your time waiting for buses. There’s tons of bike parking near Monet’s House & Garden.
The bike rentals are just opposite the Vernon station as you exit, and bikes cost about 10 EUR for the day and come with locks for you to use. We were also able to leave our bags at the bike rental shop for the day, which let us explore Giverny with much more freedom!
What to Do:
Let’s be honest, this is the real reason you came to Giverny. Claude Monet’s iconic home and garden draw thousands of visitors and offer incredible insight into the life of the Impressionist painter. Some tips for visiting:
Note the opening times. The gardens are not open all year, typically open April 1 - November 1, but review their site before planning a visit.
Be ready for the crowds. Giverny seems like an idyllic paradise, but Monet’s garden can become insanely packed in spring and summer with other art-loving tourists. My advice is to embrace the busyness and don’t be in a rush to see it all.
Book your ticket ahead! The website says that you can buy tickets onsite, but the queue for tickets on the day was crazy long. Save yourself the hassle and book ahead online.
I’d recommend going early in the morning to avoid crowds.
Musée des Impressionnismes Giverny (Museum of Impressionism)
This museum is across the street from Monet’s House and Garden and is also open seasonly. They only have temporary exhibitions, so be sure to check their website to see what is on display, and to make sure the museum will be open.
It’s a really beautiful museum space with their own garden and restaurant attached, making it the perfect place to spend an afternoon.
Restaurants and cafes are quite limited in Giverny. But La Capucine is located right next to the two art sites listed above, and their outdoor seating is a beautiful spot to recharge. There were even some chickens wondering around the grounds!
This is more of a bonus stop if you’re looking for something else to do in Giverny, and would be a good place to stop for a photo on your bike ride back into Vernon. The Old Mill of Vernon is located on the ruins of an old bridge dating back to the 12th century. It also features the half-timbered architecture that is famous in Normandy.
Content
Looking for more inspiration? Here’s some content I’ve shared from Giverny.
Alençon
Alençon is a small city in Normandy that is known for its famous lace making tradition & historic charm.
Check out my Google Map List with all recommended sites.
Getting There:
By Train:
From Paris Montparnasse it takes 2-3 hrs by train to get to Alençon. You will have to change trains once at either Le Mans, Argentan, or Caen (which might give you time for a quick explore of another city along the way!).
On average it’s about 30 EUR each way, but you can search for the best deals by booking through Trainline.
By Car:
If you have a car, it takes around 3 hours to drive from the centre of Paris to Alençon. It can be helpful to have a car if you want to explore the small nearby villages.
By Bike:
Normandy is full of cycle routes and tours. Alençon is the perfect addition to your tour of the region, or a home base from which to spend a few days cycling around. For the adventurous, you can stop at Alençon along the Véloscénie, which takes you from Paris to the coast of Mont Saint-Michel. Explore the cycle routes in and around Alençon here.
Once you arrive
Alencon is relatively small & walkable. You should be able to walk pretty much anywhere within 30 minutes, or there are several buses that take you across the city. A single ticket is €1.10 and you can purchase them on board or through the Altobus and SNCF Connect apps. For up-to-date timings check their site, or search the route on Google Maps.
Art to See:
Musée des Beaux-arts et de la Dentelle d'Alençon
(Museum of Fine Arts and Lace)
In the 17th century, lace was one of the hottest commodities and became a way to visually symbolise your wealth and status. To prevent French people from spending their money on foreign produced goods, Louis XIV banned foreign lace in France. But to keep up with growing demand, he set up royal lace workshops around the country, and one of them remains till today in Alençon. The lace technique from this region, called “Point d’Alençon” has been on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list since 2010, and a small group work everyday in the atelier to preserve this traditional craft.
This museum traces the history and evolution of lace as a craft— from early Venetian lace, to the evolution of distinctly French styles of lace. Going around the museum you start to recognise the amount of time, labour, and artistic ability that is required to produce even small pieces of lace.
And after diving into the world of lace, with a whole floor dedicated to its history and production, there’s also a beautiful art collection to explore. Perhaps most surprising was its massive collection of Cambodian art which was donated to the museum.
When visiting be aware that they close for a two-hour lunch everyday, so be sure to check opening hours before visiting.
Auberge des sœurs Moisy (The Moisy Sisters’ Tavern)
For any art lover, you need to visit the small village of Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei. A short drive from Alençon, this is certified as one of the most beautiful towns in France… and I have to agree!
This town was a summer oasis for French artists in the 19th century. They were drawn to the town’s history and natural charm, but along the way galleries and artist studios popped up along the streets (many of them are still there today!). This group of artists were drawn to depicting nature, and many of them painted outdoors, a technique called painting ‘en plein air’ which is what inspired Monet and the Impressionist painters.
While the entire town is worth exploring (and I’ve listed a few other sites to check out below) you need to visit the Moisy Sisters’ Tavern. This was were the artists hung out, and you can still see their shadows on the wall… literally!
Upstairs, where the guests used to dine, artist Paul Saïn painted the silhouettes of the people that passed through the tavern. Called the “Beheaded Room” many famous artists’ heads are found on the walls and you can see little notes scribbled on the wall from people that visited.
This is definitely one of the coolest places to visit, and feels like a true hidden gem of history. It’s open to visit 2-6pm on Thursday-Sunday.
Sites to See:
Originally a medieval fortress and later a noble residence, the château also served as a prison from the 18th century until 2010. The building is layered with history and architectural evolution. When visiting, I’d recommend walking the nearby path which connects to the Jardin Expérimental (Experimental Garden), a beautiful new park with some sculptures and installations.
The Basilique Notre-Dame d’Alençon blends Gothic elegance with later classical restoration. Built between the 14th and 16th centuries, it features intricate rib-vaulting and a flamboyant Gothic porch sculpted by Jehan Lemoine, resembling lace carved in stone. After a lightning strike in 1744 destroyed key parts of the church, 18th-century engineer Jean-Rodolphe Perronet rebuilt the choir and transepts in a classical style. Amazingly, most of the Renaissance-era stained glass survived the fire and WWII bombings .
The church is also a site of pilgrimage, as Saint Thérèse of Lisieux was baptised here, and her parents were married in the same chapel. While in Alençon, you can also visit the birthplace of Saint Theresa.
Originally built as a grain market in the early 1800s, this building was inspired by the Bourse de Commerce in Paris. Its impressive circular structure with massive glass roof is worth walking past on your way around the city, and they also host various events and exhibitions in the space.
Church of Saint-Céneri-le-Gerei
Perched above the Sarthe River, the Church of Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei is a stunning example of 11th-century Romanesque architecture, built from local sandstone and granite.
In the mid-19th century frescoes dating back to the 12th-15th century were rediscovered. They had been painted over at some point in history, but in the 19th century restorations of these frescoes were led by French archaeologist and art historian Arcisse de Caumont. This results in a fascinating blend of art styles within the church, including stained glass that was also renovated in the 19th century.
Outside, at the back corner of the church you might also notice some bees flying in and out of a small hole in the wall. Local legend says that these bees helped repel Norman invaders in the 9th century, when Viking raids were quite common. This is likely to be complete fiction as the church was not even built at this point, but the bees have been a welcome inhabitant for centuries regardless!
Chapelle dite du Petit-Saint-Céneri
If you continue from the Church of Saint-Céneri-le-Geréi past the cemetary, you’ll find a small Gothic sanctuary tucked in a meadow along the Sarthe River. Built in the late 14th or early 15th century on the site of Saint Cénéri’s hermitage and original oratory.
Inside lies the famed “saint’s bed,” a large granite stone where it’s believed children suffering from incontinence can be cured, and women may lie to encourage pregnancy. Women looking for marriage can also prick a needle into a carved statue of Saint Céneri, and if it sticks they will be wed within the year.
Several artists also depicted this small chapel in their paintings—including René Veillon, Bernard Bufffet, Gauthier, and André Paly.
Best Places to Eat
This Michelin Guide restaurant seems to be everyone’s favourite restaurant in Alençon. The food is incredible and the menu changes with the seasons to include only the freshest ingredients. Book your table in advance & be aware that they are closed on Saturday & Sunday.
Right in the centre of Alençon you can find this restaurant serving French classics. The owner spent time in Cyprus, where everyone called him Gállos (Γάλλος), meaning ‘Frenchman’ in Greek, which is how this restaurant got its name! All the produce is local and the food was delicious. We also sampled some traditional drinks from the Normandy region while we were here: Poiré which is a cider made from pears and Pommeau which is a spirit made from apples. Both were delicious and worth a try when you visit!
My Fav Spots for a Drink:
Craft beer at Le Bercail
This craft brewery is in the heart of Alençon, just down the street from the Basilica Notre Dame, making it the perfect stop after a day of touring the town. The beers are made in-house, and they serve pizzas and charcuterie boards if you get hungry.
Monthly After Work event at La Luciole
La Luciole hosts concerts and performances all year round, but once a month they have a free concert called ‘After Work.’ The music varies each month, but tends to draw in a large crowd! There’s a bar in the concert venue making this the perfect place to relax with a drink and enjoy music by emerging musicians.
Where to Stay:
This beautiful bed and breakfast was originally built at the end of the 18th century and was carefully renovated in 2018 to preserve the building’s history while adding modern touches. All of the five rooms are gorgeous, with views over the nearby Château des Ducs and beautifully manicured gardens. The hosts spoke great English and were extremely welcoming and attentive.
Activities:
If you’re looking for a unique experience during your trip to Normandy, I highly recommend visiting this immersive adventure park. You will feel like you were transported into a real-life video game filled with quests, orcs, fireside feasts, and sword fights.
You can join for a full or half day, and there’s also the option to spend the night in the cabins onsite. I’m not even someone that’s super interested in fantasy/adventure video games, but even I found this to be one of the best activities I’d done in a long time. This is the perfect addition to your time in Alençon as it’s truly a one-of-a-kind experience! The staff were all incredible, and were able to provide the full experience in English if requested.
Content:
Looking for more inspiration? Here’s some content I shared while in Alençon.
19th Century Artists in Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei
Normandy Highlights on my Instagram profile
** Please note that I visited most of these sites in Alençon while on a Press Trip with Normandy Tourism & Visit Alençon, but all recommendations are my own.
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